Whirlpool & Sears Kenmore direct drive diag chart AMERICAN SERVICE DEPT.

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MOTOR WILL NOT RUN.	No/low voltage to machine. Thermal overload tripped. Burnt wire at motor junction plug Timer switches. Poor connection on timer. Motor start switch. Motor disconnect block loose. Motor./ Bearings in motor Wiring harness. Incorrect harness wiring. Water level switch. Pump jammed. Gearcase jammed. Lid open in spin cycle. Bad motor capacitor			Click images to enlarge Older Style Lid Switch & Plunger Newer style Lid Switch

Tub is off center		Check the suspension springs and the rear counter balance spring.- Make sure all are attached. The rear spring hooks in a hole on the back of the base. Sometimes this hole rusts through. Simply drill a new hole in the base right next to the other hole.

NO AGITATE OR SPIN BUT MOTOR RUNS.	Broken motor coupling. See Replacing Motor Coupler Page
Black powder or grindings on floor under washer		Check for a worn motor coupler - See Replacing Motor Coupler Page
I Found a black rubber ring lying under my direct drive washer		It's just a sound deadening ring. Replace it if you want, but the machine will work fine without it.
WATER WILL NOT ENTER MACHINE.	Water turned off at supply. No/low voltage to machine. Water temperature switch. Timer switches. Wiring harness. Poor connection at water inlet valve solenoid. Water level switch. Incorrect harness wiring. Water inlet valve
Slow Fill or the water just drips in	Check the screens in the water inlet valve, where the hoses attach to the washer, see if they are stopped up. If not the next thing would be to replace the water inlet valve.

Water will not stop filling into the washer	Turn the washer on and let it start to fill. If you can reach over and unplug the washer from the wall and it will stop filling , check the pressure switch and the air dome. If unplugging it has no effect and it still continues to fill, and the only way to shut it off is to turn off the faucets, then replace the water inlet valve.

WATER LEVEL TOO LOW.	Water level switch out of calibration.-Replace Customer misunderstanding of correct water level.

MACHINE WILL NOT AGITATE.	Wiring harness. Motor. Stripped agitator spline. Damaged agitate cam.- Replace Transmission Damaged agitate gear..- Replace Transmission Broken agitator shaft .- Replace Transmission Broken motor coupling. See Replacing Motor Coupler Page Motor Capacitor.

INTERMITTENT AGITATE.	Pause in timer. Damaged agitate cam. Ball or thrust washer missing. Agitate gear clutch teeth worn or broken. Worn Dogs		Normal condition. Check gearcase Repair or replace. Check gearcase See Replacing Dogs Page

KNOCK DURING AGITATE.	Agitator splines. Excessive clearance on pinion thrust or main drive gear. Agitator. Gearcase

TRIES TO AGITATE DURING SPIN.	Shift actuator or cam damaged.- Replace Transmission
Wont fill with desired temperature of water when set on auto temperatures.		Check the water inlet valve Check the thermisistor (common problem if valve is good.) Check the thermisistor control board.

WATER DOES NOT DRAIN FROM MACHINE.	Clogged drain. Pump. See Replacing Pump Page Drain hose kinked. Bad Lid Switch Obstruction in Drain Hose

WATER LEAKS FROM MACHINE.	Pump Leaking - Replace Drain Hose Cracked Stand Pipe For Washer Drain Backing up _ Fill tub to highest setting and run through spin cycle and see if the drain backs up.- If yes, call the plumber. Tub seal, support seals, basket drive seals leaking. Hole in plastic outer tub. See Replacing Pump Page

SLOW OR NO SPIN.	Lid open. Lid switch defective. ( Very Common problem ) Lid switch disconnect plug open. Wiring harness. Timer switches. Motor. Cam driver on basket drive broken or basket drive weak. Weak clutch spring. Spin tube. Clothes between basket and tub. Notches in drive block worn out and not engaging basket drive shaft. Broken motor coupling. See Replacing Motor Coupler Page

MACHINE WILL NOT SPRAY RINSE.	Water inlet valve. Water temperature switch (if used). Timer switches. Wiring harness.

EXCESSIVE VIBRATION OR MACHINE WALKS.	Not level. Front leveling leg locknuts not tight. Weak floor.- Try it on a concrete slab Unbalanced load. Shipping pins still in shipping location. (not dropped into retaining cups) Rear leveling legs stuck. Rear cabinet sides loose. Suspension plate pads worn - Replace Suspension Plate & Base Pads Suspension springs missing, broken or not connected. Basket ballast missing (Salt water in plastic inner tub ring leaked out, ring is located around top of inner tub, usually brown in color).- Check for sloshing water sounds as tub stops from spinning Slick ceramic tile floor. Install double sided 3m tape on bottom of washer feet.		Suspension Plate Click to enlarge Note: Pads can be changed without removing tubs or transmission buy simply using a large screwdriver or pry bar to hold tub, etc up while changing pads. Shipping Pins drop into plastic holders upon installation of the washer. They remain in the plastic cups. They look like nails with a hole in the end of them. You can remove them from the washer and it will have no effect on the machine. Shipping Pin
EXCESSIVE VIBRATION OR MACHINE WALKS. I would suggest moving the washer to a level spot on a concrete floor and running it. To check the inner tub balance ring, it's the plastic ring around the top of the inner tub, shake the tub and listen for water in that ring. They put salt water in that ring to act as a ballast. If all of that is ok, but it still shakes running on a concrete floor, replace the skid plate.

CLOTHING DAMAGE.	Agitator. Basket. Use of excessive bleach. Overloading of machine. Foreign objects. Water level too low.

GEAR CASE LEAKS OIL.	Leak at agitator shaft. Leak at cover gasket. Too much oil in gear case. Defective cover.
WATER SPLASHING ON FLOOR.	Use of low water level with high agitation. Leaking components.

BRAKE SQUEAL.	Contaminated linings. Replace brake shoe assembly.

Noisy during agitation	Check/replace dogs the dogs	See Replacing Dogs Page

Top part of agitator slipping or not working	Check/replace dogs the dogs	See Replacing Dogs Page