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Sears / Kenmore /Whirlpool / Roper / Kitchen Aid / Estate Dryer   Date: Wednesday 07 February, 2007
Sears / Kenmore /Whirlpool / Roper / Kitchen Aid / Estate Dryer Diagnostic Chart - Lint Filter on top

Sears / Kenmore / Roper / Kitchen Aid / Estate / Whirlpool
With Lint Filter on Top
Dryer Trouble Diagnosis Chart

Quick Tips

Problem:
Gas flame comes on first few times then quits and ignitor keeps cycling on and off but never lets the gas go.
Answer:
Replace the coils on the Gas Valve.


Problem:
No flame, no ignitor at all,
Answer:
Inspect ignitor for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of ignitor or check for 110 volts to ignitor when dryer should be calling for heat, or check for continuity with ohm meter.


Click For A Larger Image

Product Damage

? The ignitor at the end of the burner is very fragile.

? Do not hit or bump this.

? Handle with care.

Failure to do so could result in product damage.

Problem:
Dryer takes too long to dry or multiple times to dry a load
Answer1:
Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the dryer completely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the back of the dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it dries better or ok like this then the problem is in the dryer venting. Like a blocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose.

Answer2:
If the vent  doesn't make a difference, then check the blower wheel for excessive lint build up, check that there isn't anything stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum, (i.e. the screen on the back wall of the dryer when looking into the drum). Check the lint filter chute for blockage. Check that the heating element isn't shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat or pocket  thermometer can be used for this. It should cycle between 120 degrees and 180 degrees. Check that the rear drum seal isn't worn out.

Dryer will not run.
  • No power to unit
  • Door switch not making.
  • Thermal fuse open.
  • Thermal Cutout Open
  • Broken belt or belt switch.
  • Timer
  • Motor
  • Push-to-Start Switch

                                     

  • Check voltage supply. make sure you have both legs 110 + 110 = 220
  • Check door switch and wiring and continuity. 
  • Check thermal fuse continuity.- if blown replace the thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat Check the heating element for a short to ground - check the air intake screen inside of the dryer drum for a dryer sheet stuck to the air intake screen. - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
  • Check thermal cutout continuity -Check the heating element for a short to ground - check the air intake screen inside of the dryer drum for a dryer sheet stuck to the air intake screen. - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
  • Check for broken belt or check belt switch
    for continuity.
  • Check timer contacts for continuity.
  • Check voltage to motor, contacts 4 & 5, (12OVAC). Check motor windings for
    continuity, (2-4 ohms). 
  • Check PTS contacts Ri - R2, while pushing start switch. 
Click Images To Enlarge

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Note: Raise top to access door 
Switch

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Example of a Broken Element

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Popular Thermal Fuse
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No heat in dryer.
  • Improper voltage supply (No 220 volts)
  • Heater Element
  • Gas Burner
  • Thermostat
  • Thermal cut-off
  • Thermal fuse
  • Hi-limit thermostat
  • Motor centrifugal switch
  • Bad Igniter (Gas Models)
  • Bad Coils on Gas Valve (Gas Models)
  • Bad Flame Sensor (Gas Models)

 

  • Check for 24OVAC. (electric dryer) Note: the dryer will run but not heat if one leg is dead,110 +110=220
    The element runs on 220. the motor on 110.
  • Check Element continuity, (8-12 ohms).
  • Check for voltage (12OVAC) to burner (gas models)
    Check igniter continuity, Check Coils on gas valve Check flame switch continuity, (0 ohms or "closed" when cold).
  • Check thermostat for continuity
  • Check thermal cutout for continuity, (0 ohms or "closed").-Check the heating element for a short to ground - check the air intake screen inside of the dryer drum for a dryer sheet stuck to the air intake screen. - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
  • Check thermal fuse for continuity, (0 ohms or "closed").- if blown replace the thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat -Check the heating element for a short to ground - check the air intake screen inside of the dryer drum for a dryer sheet stuck to the air intake screen. - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
  • Check High Limit thermostat for continuity. You can bypass the High Limit thermostat  (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
  • Manually close centrifugal switch contacts, check for continuity, (1 M-2M ohms).

 

But Hey I don't have a Ohm MeterTo check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.
To Check the igniter :
Inspect igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of igniter
To Check the Flame Sensor: You can bypass this, (just connect the two wires together) for testing purposes. Remember, the way this thing works ...It is normally closed,....the igniter comes on,....after the igniter gets hot enough, the flame sensor breaks, (becomes open, as in no continuity).
All other checks above will require a meter.

Drum will not rotate.
  • Broken belt
  • Broken belt switch
  • Idler pulley binding.

 

  • Check belt.
  • Check for proper operation of idler pulley.
  • Check the motor for a locked bearing

 

Not heating enough. or Takes too long to dry
  • Blocked air flow
  • Thermostat cycling too low.

 

  • Check lint filter,
  •  blower housing,
  • Internal and external ducting and exhaust hood.
  • Check exhaust temperatures for proper cycling.
  • Check the vent. Make sure it's not blocked.

Tip:  You can pull the dryer a few  feet from the wall and  unhook the vent hose from the back of the dryer, and do a load of clothes with NOTHING attached to the vent pipe on the back of the dryer to determine if the problem is in the vent or in the dryer  To Clean the Vent pipe in the wall....You can use a vent cleaning brush as seen on our parts page, or a fish tape, garden hose, drain tape , with a rag secured to the end of it and pull it through. I've also seen people use leaf blowers.

Temperature too hot.
  • Thermostat heater open
  • Element shorted to ground
  • Vent Blocked

 

  • Check heater for continuity, (3200-4000 ohms).
  • Check selector and wiring for continuity.
  • Check and replace element as necessary.
  • Check and clear vent

 

Auto cycle timer won't advance.
  • Timer
  • Electronic control Dryness sensor
  • Cycling thermostat
  • Check timer motor continuity, (4000-6000 ohms).
  • Check Electronic Control
  • Check cycling thermosta
Dryer Noisy or making a thumping sound
  • Drum Rollers
  • Dryer Making a High-Pitch Squeaking Noise

 

  • Check the drum rollers and replace if necessary
  • Check the idler pulley. (the pulley that keeps tension on the belt).

 

Heating Element Stays on when the door is opened and the dryer isn't running

 

Check the element for a short to ground

Check the motor centrifugal switch

 

  • Replace the Element
  • Check centrifugal switch contacts, check for continuity, (1 M-2M ohms).

 

Dryer makes a Humming or whistling noiseCheck the Lint Signal
 
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